Four U.S. Climbing Destinations
Yosemite, Zion, Hueco Tanks and Red River Gorge
This article is the first in a series of four articles about four popular U.S. climbing destinations. Recommended by local climbing enthusiasts, each climbing spot has a unique beauty all of its own and specific climbing benefits that all climbers will appreciate and enjoy.
PART 1
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK
Considered a Mecca for climbers, Yosemite comprises 1,200 square miles of mountainous terrain in the Sierra Nevada of California. Fed mainly by snowmelt, Yosemite is widely known for its waterfalls. Peak flow happens in late May, creating a back drop of gorgeous scenery for climbers. Included in that back drop are scenes of ancient, giant sequoias, deep valleys and perfect meadows. With its adventurous terrain, Yosemite is the ultimate playground for the climbing enthusiast and is considered one of the world’s greatest climbing areas.
While routes for beginners do exist at Yosemite, the existence is limited. And, the beginning climbing routes that do exist are often crowded with many other beginning climbers. This could prove to be daunting or a benefit, as the beginning climber at Yosemite will easily find new friends and partners with the same level of climbing skills. Beginning climbers should also note that Yosemite is comprised of granite rock, polished by glaciers, creating a climbing terrain that is slick and with very few hand holds.
Intermediate and advanced climbers will fall in love with the adventurous terrain of Yosemite. For climbers with the skills to climb a 5.8 or harder, the options for a thrilling, challenging climb are practically limitless. Walls are steep and smooth, and Yosemite requires traditional climbing, with climbers resorting to jamming hands and feet in cracks, using smear techniques and placing their own gear. The Yosemite climb calls for great patience and endurance, so gear-placing and anchor-setting skills must be already developed before taking on a challenging Yosemite climb.
Here are some recommended routes:
- Munginella
- This is a great Yosemite introductory climb. With a three-pitch, 5.6 climb, climbers still should not be quick to underestimate its challenges. Spectacular views of Half Dome, Lost Arrow Spire and Sunnyside Bench reward the Munginella climber.
- Half Dome Snake Dike
- Considered a true Yosemite classic climb, this eight-pitch, 5.7 climb has a long approach but boasts great climbing. Snake Dike itself is held as the technically easiest climb to the Half Dome summit, which sits 5,000 feet above the Yosemite valley floor. The experience of the climb includes passing waterfalls and a gorgeous view of the High Sierra. The approach, climb and descent times make this climb an all-day adventure, so be prepared.
- Central Pillar
- With only a 15-minute approach, this five-pitch, 5.9 climb is one of the most popular 5.9 climbs in Yosemite. Protection is solid and the jamming is superb with fingers, fist cracks, chimneys and stems. Climbers get a stunning view of the Merced River, a free-flowing river that rolls along Yosemite’s valley floor, building into a gorgeous whitewater river.
- The Nose of El Capitan
- One of the most sought after climbs in the world, The Nose at El Capitan boasts 31 pitches and a grade of 5.9 or 5.13. This aid climb is strenuous and can take an average 4-5 days to complete. Far-advanced climbers have been known to complete the climb successfully in 1 day. Only the most experienced climbers should attempt this route, as failure rates are considered to be very high. Committed climbers looking for a difficult challenge will find what they are searching for at The Nose and receive the bonus of beautiful waterfall views during the day and glowing views of the Milky Way at night.
The best time to climb in Yosemite is spring and fall. Summers can be sweltering, while winter is too cold and wet. Between the vast amount of challenging climbs and the unbelievable scenery, it is no wonder that one of the nation’s first wilderness parks is at the top of every climber’s list. For more information on Yosemite, such as camping and events, contact the National Park Service of the U.S. Department of Interior or visit www.nps.gov/yose/.
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